After a big day out exploring Mt Fuji in our hire car our senses were intrigued as we traversed the windy valley road which led to KAI Hakone Ryokan, a luxury ryokan in Hakone.  It was our first time staying in a luxury hotel and we were not quite sure what to expect.

On arrival the staff met us at our vehicle, took our luggage and invited us into the Hoshino Resorts KAI Hakone hotel reception area.  On first glance we were impressed with the level of comfort on offer, and also drawn to look out the large plate glass windows to see the view from the ryokan.  The view of the opposite hillside was stunning with the last blooms of the cherry blossom season, and the peaceful sound of the river passing by set the scene of expectation that we were destined to have a relaxing time, Japanese style.

After we settled in we really enjoyed the peacefulness of KAI Hakone and the kaiseki dinner was amazing!  The onsen baths were gorgeous and provided a truly luxurious experience in a very relaxing location.  With regards to the question of whether KAI Hakone is the best luxury ryokan in Hakone, we may have to try out more ryokan options in Hakone to answer that question but we are definitely convinced that it must be one of the best!

Note that our stay at KAI Hakone was sponsored by Hoshino Resorts.

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What is a Hoshino Resort?

We first discovered Hoshino Resorts by accident, when my husband was researching tattoo friendly onsens.  He reached out to Hoshino Resorts to request further information on whether they were tattoo friendly, which subsequently led to us being invited to stay during our recent visit to Japan in four different Hoshino Resorts out of their 15 luxury ryokans which are located across Japan.  We stayed in KAI Nikko, KAI Hakone, KAI Kinugawa, and KAI Matsumoto.

Overall we really enjoyed our Hoshino Resort visits, and each resort was distinctly different in character, food and activities on offer.  What was common was that each was a true luxury ryokan onsen experience.  We felt very relaxed when we enjoyed their kaiseki menus which each featured regional food specialities, some taking us out of our Western palate comfort zones, with most being delicious!  We were also pleased to discover that they also offered children’s menus which are simpler in flavour – our youngest son really enjoyed his meals, such that our older son requested to shift from the adult to the children’s menu for his dinners.

Each resort had a different style of onsen, which included indoor, outdoor, as well as many different onsen types to experience.  Men and women bathed separately, and in some of the resorts they alternated the men’s and women’s areas at different times of the day to enable visitors to the resort to visit both bathing areas.  Usually they were quite different so this way you could have the full experience!

Each Hoshino Resort also had a different set of activities based on local customs and history.  Activities we participated in ranged from learning about local pottery, local wine tastings, musical performances, making local crafts such as drink coasters and much more!  In each of our articles about the specific resorts we will detail our experiences.

Where is Hakone?

Hakone is both a township and a region located on the south eastern side of Mt Fuji.  From Tokyo you can get to the township of Hakone by train to Hakone-Yumoto Station. 

Hakone is a very mountainous area close to Mt Fuji.  The major reason to visit is the mountainous terrain, hot springs and many more attractions, with an extra bonus if you manage to see Mt Fuji during your visit.  Mt Fuji can only be viewed from parts of the road and ropeway routes between Gora and Togendai Port at the northern end of Lake Ashi, and views can also be seen from the middle to southern section of Lake Ashi.

Hoshino Resorts KAI Hakone is easily accessible either by hire car or by public transport.  Transportation options are as follows:

• You can catch the train to Hakone-Yumato Station, the gateway to the Hakone region – which can be accessed directly from Tokyo if you travel on the Romance car, a 1.5 hour trip from Shinjuku Station.  Alternatively you can catch either a shinkansen, the JR Tokaido line or Odakyu Odawara line from Tokyo and change trains at Odawara Station onto the Hakone Tozan Railway. Odawara Station is also a shinkansen station which can be easily accessed directly from either Tokyo, Nagoya, Kyoto or Osaka.
• From Hakone-Yumato Station it is a short 2.6km drive from the station, and is easily accessible by taxi.
• Alternatively you can catch a Tozan bus from Hakone Yumato-Station and be dropped off a short 250m walk from KAI Hakone.

Check out the Google Map below to see the options.

If you have an active Japan Rail Pass you can travel to Odawara Station on the shinkansen which travels the route very regularly (noting that you cannot travel on the Nozumi trains with a JR Pass).  You will need to use a Suica, Pasmo or Icoca tap on tap off public transport card or a Hakone Free Pass to travel to Hakone-Yumato Station.

Alternatively if you purchase a Hakone Free Pass it includes return transportation from Shinjuku Station to Hakone-Yumato Station, and also includes transportation around Hakone using the local Tozan buses, trains, trams and selected cable cars.  You can pre-order your Hakone Free Pass through Klook at this link.

Hoshino Resorts KAI Hakone Overview

KAI Hakone is situated beside the Sukumo River which runs to the south west from Hakone township.  The Sukumo River is located in a lovely forest filled valley, and it is important to note that you do not have Mt Fuji views from this valley – there is a whole mountain range between the Sukumo River and Mt Fuji!

KAI Hakone is a very modern Hoshino Resort facility, and has been constructed to enable all guest rooms to look out to the beautiful Sukumo River and valley views.  The common areas and restaurant are located on the western end of the resort, while the guest rooms are located on the eastern end of the resort.  The amazing onsen baths are located on the bottom floor of the resort and also have a view over the Sukumo River.  It is a very easy to explore resort with all amenities close by.

KAI Hakone ryokan has a lovely common area for guests located beside the reception desk.  In this area you can sit and relax, read some books and access the self service tea and coffee station.  

You can also browse the KAI Hakone shop which has great local craft, food and drink options.  Parquetry woodwork is a speciality of the area and the gift shop has many lovely items available for sale.

Each evening in the common area the staff provide a demonstration of local customs and traditions.  At KAI Hakone the staff provided a introduction to the local Hakone parquetry industry.  The staff provided the demonstration in Japanese, however an English translation was provided to us to enable us to follow along.

Overview of KAI Hakone Guest Rooms

There are six different types of guest rooms at KAI Hakone as follows:

• Japanese-style Suite with River View for 1-2 guests (80 m²)
• Western-style Room with Outdoor Bath and River View for 1-2 guests (58 m²). These rooms are located on the top floor of the building.

• Western-style Room with Living Room and River View for 1-3 guests (51 m²). These rooms contain up to three single beds.
• Japanese-style Room with River View for 1-5 guests (58 m²). These rooms contain up to two double futon style beds, with an additional single futon bed if required.
• Japanese-style Room with River View for 1-4 guests (51-55 m²). These rooms contain two single beds.
• Japanese-style Room with River View (Double Bed) for 1-2 guests (46-48 m²). These rooms contain one double bed.

In the KAI Hakone Japanese Style guest rooms you sleep on a bed which is a hybrid between a futon and a western style mattress on the floor, and were the best mattresses that we have ever slept on!  The mattress is a very comfortable inner spring mattress which is located on top of an elevated podium. 

Each room has standard amenities, including yukata robes, Japanese style pajamas and slippers as well as a KAI speciality, a cloth you can fold according to the included instructions to make a bag to carry your personal items while wearing your yukata.  In addition there is a complimentary tea service which includes local snacks.  There is also a mini bar filled with a selection of local alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks and snacks available for purchase. 

The bathroom has all of the amenities you would expect of a luxury resort, including a hair dryer, shampoo, conditioner, skin lotion and soap, toothbrush, toothpaste and razors.  The room also has a TV, phone, safe box and air purifier with humidifying function.

KAI Hakone Ryokan

Standard room prices at KAI Hakone include either room only, bed and breakfast, dinner, bed and breakfast or a special Anniversary Stay.  The dinner is well worthwhile as it is a KAI Hakone style kaiseki multi course meal which features the local cuisine of the Hakone region.

KAI Hakone Restaurant Kaiseki Dinner

Our kaiseki dinner at KAI Hakone was one of the highlights of our visit!  A kaiseki dinner is a set menu which features the regional cuisine, so expect that you may be challenged with some foods if you have a western palate, but it is a great way to truly experience the Japanese culture.

Below is a photo of our menu for dinner, followed by some photos from each course for your enjoyment!  A real highlight was the Assorted Sashimi course in a beautiful parquetry box – it was fun trying to work out what each option was, and to then taste and enjoy each item.  We also really enjoyed the KAI Hakone Special Dish of a Soy Milk Meringue Hot Pot – the theatre of it being cooked in front of you was great, and it tasted delicious!

Of note if you are travelling with children is that KAI Hakone also offers a children’s meal, which is a simpler version of the adult menu.  Our youngest son who is age 10 really enjoyed his children’s meals, and our older son aged 13 asked to change to the children’s menu when he was feeling challenged by the adult menu options.

Breakfast at KAI Hakone

The Japanese style breakfast at KAI Hakone is also an experience!  Breakfast is served as a single course, so you can easily have a quick breakfast and then get on with your activities for the day.  Below is the menu from our visit and some photos to enable you to see what is the typical food provided.  KAI Hakone also has a western style breakfast option which is available on request.

KAI Hakone Onsen Experience

As you would expect, a visit to KAI Hakone is not complete without visiting their onsen baths!  The KAI Hakone onsen has a spectacular open air onsen bath with an outlook over the Sukumo River.  The onsen area starts with a common area, which can be used for guests to meditate or rehydrate.  Complimentary drinks and refreshing fruit ice blocks are provided in this area. 

There are then separate male and female bathing areas.  The red curtain is for females and the blue curtain is for males.  To enable all guests to access all of the onsen facilities the male and female bathing areas are swapped at specific times each day, so if you bathe in both the evening and the morning you will experience both areas.

After you enter the male or female onsen area there is a rack where you can remove your yukata and store any personal items before entering the bathing area.  Note that you are not allowed to wear any clothing items in the baths, and tattoos must be covered by adhesive plasters which you can request at the reception desk.  No photos are allowed.  There are showers where you are expected to wash and rinse before you enter the onsen baths.  A selection of shampoo, conditioner and body wash are provided.

After you have washed you can then experience the onsen baths.  KAI Hakone has an indoor open air onsen baths which are very beautiful and relaxing.  After you ease yourself into the hot waters you can just relax and enjoy the peacefulness and listen to the sound of the Sukumo River passing by.

I usually find that about 10 minutes in an onsen bath is enough.  Pay attention to your body and when you feel like you are getting too hot then it is time to get out.  After you bathe you can then have another shower, have a drink and then decide whether to bathe again!

For more information about onsen etiquette check out the Hoshino Resorts video below.

How to Book Your Visit to KAI Hakone Resort

You can either book directly through the KAI Hakone Resort website.

Sightseeing Hakone

There is a lot to see and do in the area around Hakone, so we would definitely recommend that you plan to stay at KAI Hakone for at least two to three nights to make the most of the local options.  The major locations within the Hakone Region are as detailed below – each of these areas is easily accessible from KAI Hakone using the local buses and other public transport included in the Hakone Free Pass or by hire car.  You can pre-order your Hakone Free Pass through Klook at this link.

• Hakone-Yumato township
• Gora township
• Lake Ashi

Other Hakone destinations which are further afield are detailed below, and are all accessible using  your Hakone Free Pass, while Odawara can be accessed by train from Hakone-Yumato Station.  If you have a hire car these destinations are more quickly accessible.

• Mishima Skywalk
• Gotemba Premium Outlets
• Odawara

Hakone-Yumato Township

Hakone-Yumato township is centered around Hakone-Yumato Station which is the gateway to the Hakone region.  Hakone-Yumato is well known for its many natural onsen baths which have been used since the 700’s. 

Hakone-Yumato also has a great small shopping street with many food and souvenir options.  You can also explore the river area and see many lovely sights.  Historic Sounji Temple is a climb up the hill but is a great option to explore the temple while surrounded by nature. 

Hakone Tozan Train Trip from Hakone-Yumato to Gora

From Hakone-Yumato you can catch the Hakone Tozan Train up the hill to Gora, a 37 minute trip where you climb from 96m to 541m above sea level!  Alternatively you can also catch the Tozan Buses to Kigasakashita Bus Stop in Gora, a trip of 14 minutes.  Both options are included in your Hakone Free Pass.

While the train takes longer it is the better option because it takes a very scenic route through the forest and valleys, stopping at small stations and having to change directions at three switchbacks.  In June and July the Hakone Tozan Train trip is at its best when the hydrangea flowers are in bloom along the route, and additional night time trains are run with the blooms being illuminated.  The trains depart approximately every 10 minutes.

Gora Township

Gora has so much to see and do that it would be worthwhile to plan to spend a whole day exploring!

If you love art check out the Hakone Open Air Museum, the Pola Museum of Art and the Okada Museum of Art.

For an Onsen Theme Park experience check out Hakone Kowaki-en Yunessun Hot Spring Theme Park – it has a section where you can wear a swimsuit and try out a great range of different onsen baths!  Options include the green tea onsen, red wine onsen, coffee onsen and many more including water slides, both indoor and outdoor!  There is also a more traditional onsen section where you bathe in the nude.

Click here to purchase your Hakone Kowaki-en Yunessun Hot Spring Theme Park tickets through Klook

Hakone Tozan Cable Car and Hakone Ropeway

From Gora to Sounzan you can catch the very steep Hakone Tozan Cable Car and enjoy the views of Sounzan Observation Deck, where you can enjoy views of Gora and Mt Hakone.  If the weather is clear you may also be able to see Sagami Bay to the south.

From Sounzan you can catch the Hakone Ropeway to Owakudani and then on to Togendai port at the northern end of Lake Ashi.  You can also see views of Mt Fuji at locations along the Hakone Ropeway if the weather is in your favour!

Owakudani is a fascinating place to visit and see volcanic activity – let’s just say that the smell of sulphur will be enduring!  You can also eat a black egg which has been cooked in volcanic waters – the egg turns black due to a reaction between the calcium in the egg shell and the minerals in the water, and the egg is perfectly fine to eat and is a local speciality! 

From Owakudani you can catch the Hakone Ropeway to Togendai Port which is a pleasant journey down the mountain.

Note that the Hakone Ropeway is currently closed (as at June 2019) due to an increased level of volcanic activity in Owakudani and alternate bus options are available.  This issue does not affect sightseeing in the rest of Hakone.  Click here to check whether the ropeway is open prior to your journey.

Lake Ashi

Lake Ashi provides lovely views over Mt Fuji, and there are several cruise options including a pirate ship cruise.

At the northern end of Lake Ashi you can catch a pirate ship to cruise on the lake from Togendai Port and Motohakone and Hakonemachi at the southern end of the lake.  The cruise is included in your Hakone Free Pass.  If you are lucky you will also be able to see Mt Fuji during your cruise!

In Hakonemachi you can visit the historic Hakone checkpoint from the Edo Period which has been reconstructed.  In Motohakone you can do the short 5 minute walk to Hakone Shrine to see their famous torii gate on the edge of Lake Ashi and to explore the temple complex.

Also from Motohakone you can do the short walk along the ancient Kyukaido highway and see a lovely corridor of Japanese cedar trees.

You can catch either a bus or a boat to get to the lower terminal of the Komagatake Ropeway, which is located halfway along the eastern side of Lake Ashi.  The Komagatake Ropeway leads from the shore of Lake Ashi to near the Komagatake peak of Mount Hakone, and provides excellent views of Mt Fuji when the weather is good.  At the top is the Mototsumiya, the original Hakone Shrine.  From the top there are also several hiking trails.

From Hakonemachi and Motohakone you can easily catch a Hakone Tozan Bus to return to KAI Hakone and Hakone-Yumato Station.

Gotemba Premium Outlets

Gotemba Premium Outlets are located at the mid point between Hakone and the Five Lakes region and are a popular destination for shopping and to have lunch.  From Gotemba Outlets you can also get a very close view of Mt Fuji!

From Gotemba you can catch public transport to get to Kawaguchiko in the Five Lakes region to the north for further Mt Fuji experiences.

Mishima Skywalk

The Mishima Skywalk, at a length of 400 meters / 1312 ft, is the longest pedestrian only suspension bridge in Japan.  You can see views of both Mt Fuji and Suruga Bay from the bridge. 

The Mishima Skywalk can be accessed by the Tokai Bus Orange Shuttle from Hakonemachi at the southern end of Lake Ashi.  From the Mishima Skywalk you can also catch the bus to Mishima Station which is a shinakansen station which provides easy access to and from Tokyo, Nagoya, Kyoto and Osaka.

Odawara

Odawara Station is a shinkansen station and easily accessible from Tokyo, Nagoya, Kyoto and Osaka. 

Odawara Castle is located in the township of Odawara and was originally built in the mid-15th century.  Odawara Flower Garden is a pleasant garden which is well known for the large variety of roses on display as well as its greenhouses and many other floral displays.

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